conradwalks: September 2026

Monday 7th September 2026

I had been harbouring anxiety about this section because of the long, unavoidable stretch of busy road with only grass verges. I should have been more concerned about the short footpath from Cliburn to link up with that road. The first few yards went through a farmyard in a most unlkely manner but I can't complain because there were footpath signs, but high up on a barn side, and it was only after much toing and froing that I spotted them. Further on rough pasture had several indistinct paths, and I wandered without checking GPS before getting. back on the path proper. Somewhere I lost the path again and ended up on the wrong side of a low barbed wire fence that I managed to straddle. It was a messy and frustrating start to the day. I would advise anybody walking this to pay careful attention to keep strictly to the path using GPS and make sure of being on the correct side of field boundaries.

The long stretch of road was not busy and turned out to be more amenable than I had anticipated and although boring I was now able to make good time for this 8.4 mile walk.

A combintion of lanes and fields and wooded paths followed, all quite ordinary and not much of interest to see. Just before exiting to Brougham Hall the path through woods arrives at a strange home made gate in the wall with no footpath sign, and unlikely as it seems this is the route to follow and then some tricky map reading is needed to get onto the tarmac road leading eventually to Brougham Castle. There is a full history on Wiki for the hall and the castle which you may read if you are a devotee of medieval history, but, as this is part of the raison d'être of this walk here are the relevant sections describing Lady Anne's involvement:

Brougham Hall

The hall, usually sold in third parts, passed through the hands of various families in medieval times. Lady Anne Clifford, 14th Baroness de Clifford, the then owner of Brougham Castle, bought one third part of Brougham Hall in 1654. Amongst other improvements, she re-built the Hall's chapel, St. Wilfrid's, completed about 1659. Lady Anne's attorney-at law and later her steward, James Bird, bought her third of the Hall and manor after her death (1676), being the first person to hold the entirety of the building since the de Broughams.^[2]

^{As castle}^{s go Brougham is pretty impressive especially with its}

^{imperious elevated}^positionoverlooking the River Eamont.

I hadn't time but it would be worth a visit.

^{Brougham Castle}

In 1643, Lady Anne Clifford inherited the estates, including the castles of Brougham, Appleby, and Brough, and set about restoring them. Brougham Castle was kept in good condition for a short time, after Lady Anne's death in 1676; however, Thomas Tufton, 6th Earl of Thanet, who had inherited the Clifford estates, sold the furnishings in 1714. The empty shell was left to decay, as it was too costly to maintain. As a ruin, Brougham Castle inspired a painting by J. M. W. Turner, and was mentioned at the start of William Wordsworth's poem The Prelude, as well as becoming the subject of Wordsworth's Song at the Feast of Brougham Castle upon the Restoration of Lord Clifford, the Shepherd, to the Estates and Honours of his Ancestors. The castle was left to the Ministry of Works, in the 1930s, and is today maintained by its successor, English Heritage

The road ends just past the castle then easy walking field footpath follows the bends of the river wihich was in lively mood boastfully reflecting sunlight from its fast moving currents.

Eamont Bridge would look elegant and historic but it is hidden by a modern ugly conglomeration of iron and steel, I suppose the possibility of something more aesthetic cofounded the designers.

Lady Anne's Way folows footpaths and minor back roads to climb up to the centre of Penrith and the finish, but that was closed beyond the limits of my penchant to trespass and I had to follow the main road into Penrith finishing at Lady Anne's Way terminus in Duke Street. A taxi ride with a jolly taxi lady took me back to my car at Cliburn.

I am now looking forwards to filling in the remaining sections from my beloved limestone dales country starting from Skipton. See map below.

Singpost to Larch cottage where I bought rare dwarf shrubs over twenty years ago

Leaving the long busy road into pylon land. They are shown on the OS maps but puzzlingly better depicted on the 1:50 than on the 1:25

A bit of woodland, part of the varied walking after leaving the road

Brougham Hall

Brougham Castle, and below

Sunlight on the fast moving river

Old bridge abutment

Spot the old elegant bridge!

In Penrith

See the street sign, Duke Street, end of Lady Anne's Way.

Green, Lady Anne's Way, pink, the same and my route as plotted

Blue = done
Green= to do

Monday 31st August 2026

There was no alterative to a long there and back for this section with the need to park a car at the far point for next time. I could reduce the return distance to some extent using quiet roads. I could also see the possibility of using the disused railway line at one point leading dirctly back to my starting point, but if that was not viable I would have to carry on to the A66 death trap and opt for suicidal walking back to The Bridge, or extend the walk by footpath and roads to enter Kirkby Thore by the back door and that is what happened, so until I was back home I hadn't plotted the exact distance. It turned out to be 9.4 miles, that is more than I have walked for a long time, but although a bit tired at the end I was by no means on my knees ( good job in view of their semi artificial construction.)

After pleassnt riverside paths there were less friendly sections through woods with rugged twisting paths eventually leading to the superb red sandstone, multi arch Ousenstand Bridge. A long stretch of tarmac followed which I could see vanishing to a pinpoint, all too far ahead.

At Crossrigg Hall I was back on decent footpaths with more pleasureable walking. An unusual Victorian post box was seen here of a design I have never seen before. My path only skirted the hall, but the Wikipedia details fascinating history of a string of wealthy owners with military and East India Company comnections amongst others and leading up to modern times where there seems to have been plans to develop this into a leisure complex. I noticed the extensive use of proud and sturdy decorative cast-iron railings around the estate. During WW2 iron railings were comprehensively "acquired" by the powers that be to boost weapons and aircraft production. I wondered if these were rare survivors in this out of the way backwater. Just imagine the "Powers" coming round today and taking your railings - it is amazing the lengths gone to and the inventiveness and improvisation in the desperation of our situation at that time and that should be remembered.

Further on a man on a quad bike stopped and remarked on me being a "lone walker." We chatted with interest for perhaps ten minutes on a range of subjects partly influenced by not much of a gap beteen our advanced years.

Arriving at Cliburn I decided to return by roads which turned out to be much busier than I had anticipated perhaps due to it being August bank holiday.

After having to contnue to the A66, the footpath across the road to Kirkby Thore was blocked by large security fencing plastered with warning notices, part of the on-going major realignment of the A66. Surprisingly I managed to open the gate and complete my walk to Kirkby Thore.

Immediately oppositeThe Bridge on the A66 where I had parked. Crossing that road was not for the faint hearted

Following the River Eden

Identification? Looked unusual to me

The splendid Ousenstand bridge. Unusually dominating considering it is in the middle of nowhere on a relatively minor road

Tarmac disappearing a long way into the distance

See close up of rare Victorian post box below

The superb iron railngs mentioned above. They look to be in too good condition for circa WW2 unless they have been meticulously maintained over the years