What a magnificent walk. I breakfasted at the Spar in Newport- chicken sandwich, Kit Kat and Fanta. I left half the Kit Kat for later, and also bought cheese and what I thought were Hob Nob biscuits for later.
This part of the Coastal Path has many steep ups and downs negotiating what are called zawns in Cornwall, but there are long stretches of exciting cliff top sections where you are walking very close to the edge of steep drops with no fence protection. The rock cliff scenery combined with blue sea and sky on thus hot sunny day were stunning. This is a sixteen mile stretch with no facilities for water or refreshment.
At my lunch stop I found that my Hob Nobs were Caramel Crumbles and they were rather a sticky mess and the other half of my Kit Kat was liquid.
Coming into St Dogmaels I came across the YHA hostel. It was about 3.30. Somebody said the warden comes at 5.00. I was going to stay and so plugged my iPhone etc in and made a cup of tea, but on looking at the food storage compartments it looked like there were a lot of people staying and I anticipated a bun fight in the kitchen trying to cook a meal even if there was room for me to stay. There were no instructions about what to do on arrival and all in all I was getting bad vibes about this place. I decided to walk on and found a b and b with evening meals just before St Dogmaels - it is virtually a pub. i am now typing this having showered and washed all my clothing using the traditional towel drying method and I am looking forward to the meal.
I forgot to mention a bit of drama yesterday some way out of Fishguard at a cliff top static caravan site where a coastguard arrived in his car and commenced to search the sea with binoculars. When I asked what was going on he pointed out a pinprick of a speedboat near the horizon, and he said its engine had failed - "it's drifting off to Ireland" he said, but apparently the inshore lifeboat was on it's way.
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Drifting off to Ireland - an unfashionable choice. The papers say the reverse route is preferred these days. The collapse of the property market there has made auctions a greater spectator sport. A Dublin apartment for which the original asking price was 1.2m euros had a reserve of 600,000 euros. Which it made. Three bed semi reserved at £30,000. Buy Irish property and watch your neighbours starve.
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