SWCP Downderry to Kingsand

Monday 18th July

It was only about twelve miles to Kingsand and I opted for an 8:00am breakfast - I should have known better.

Mr. Board dropped me off back on the path and it was uphill between hedges and bracken immediately on an awkward path. It was incredibly hot and I was bothered by buzzing flies, little black flies that bite, and the occasional horsefly that bite like hell. Within twenty minutes my shirt was exactly as it would have been if I had taken a shower, yes, the whole shirt and I do not exaggerate.

Onwards on slightly better and more open paths, but so often on a slant as I have previously mentioned compressing the edge of my right foot into the side of my shoe - uncomfortable.

The Jolly Roger Cliff Top Café was a welcome discovery after I had walked all the way through Portwrinkle (enchanting name) with ever diminishing hope. There I ordered a pot of tea FOR TWO and sat inside in my drenched shirt making those guys in Ice Cold in Alex seem like debutantes in the business of hot weather travel.

I left the road just after this to follow The Path. It descended steeply through a collection of run down shanty chalets with odd paths leading off through gorse bracken and other unidentified shrubbery. I was soon lost and SWCP signs were long gone. I ended up on the beach several hundred feet below the road where only two other people had managed to make it. I was informed by a very credible local that I could not get round because the tide was in, but there was the possibility of a rock climb up a slab. I modestly established my credentials but he wisely advised me to return the way I had come. I toiled back up to the road.

My intermediate destination was Rame Head, and having taken the road instead of the elusive Path I navigated back onto course. At Rame Head there was the option to visit the old fort and the WW2 gun emplacement, a high point peninsula off the path. In the parlance of modern day usage I'm not sure about, it seemed "rude" not to do so. I had the satisfying feeling of seeing the view from a significant point on the UK map.

I had one and a half bottles of water remaining and reduced that to one. My philosophy says I must end up with some of the water I carried at the end of the walk to prove my prudence to myself or whoever.

A bit further on I met a quiet and softly spoken walker and we walked the
last couple of kms into Kingsand together. He gave me much information about forthcoming ferries from his knowledge as a local resident, and more of that tomorrow.

I am booked in at the Halfway House Inn. The building is ancient, part of the central village ambience. My room is modern and well furnished. Atmosphere in the bar/restaurant is pleasantly lively ( always a good sign), and no riff-raff, yes, I am a bit of a snob. Service is modestly professional and food almost above and beyond.

My starter: Seared scallops, crispy pancetta, chilli jam, lemon crème fraîche. Sounds crazy,but the creator ( not with a capital) knew what he was doing.

Main course: a three fish fish pie, very good, accompanied by some sea veggies I couldn't identify, but may have done with more cooking.

Desert: secret.

Night night.


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