Outhgill north (Eden Way) and how I missed some mackerel

 Saturday 11th April 2024

Continuation of Eden Way in sections

I needed to fill in this short section with little alternative than a circular of 6.5 miles but only half of that on the route and a long trudge back on the road for the other half. Having got as far north as Kirkby Stephen previously next time I may park say six miles further north and summon a taxi back to Kirkby Stephen - we will see.

At Outhgill I parked by the church and followed the path through the churchyard down to the river. The church was again locked which seems to be more prevalent these days.

The pointed peak of Wild Boar Fell dominated to the  south-west for a while with memories of an ascent some years ago when an RAF fighter jet dipped his wings at me as he passed at suicidal low altitude.

The well found track from the river took me through a pleasant gathering of archetypal dales cottages and farmhouse at Shoregill,  and then grassy sheep cropped fields with glimpses of the river below and also the uninviting road across on the other side by which I would have to return.

A smart white painted cottage at Low Corklake appeared with a superbly rusted barn to the left - I am a sucker for a rusty barn, see the photo below. I chatted with husband and wife briefly, but no cup of tea was offered. they were apparently retired professionals of some sort and had lived on this isolated spot for twenty eight years. The OS map shows "Pendragon Castle (remains of.)" but without a precise positioning but the couple told me exactly where and I realised I would pass by on the road on my return so need to divert from the cottage.

I am still huffing and puffing  even on level ground and more so on inclines and taking frequent rests. Whilst it is good to be out in our fabulous dales countryside my affliction does take the edge off the enjoyment.

Just before Lammerside Castle I joined up for a short distance with my previous walk. As I looked back from the castle I saw a convoy of 4WD vehicles heading back along the track I had walked  and was glad that I had not been twenty minutes later.

At Mire Close Bridge I left my previous route to recross the river and walk back out to the road for the long trudge back to the car.

It had been hot, around 24 degrees and as I wearily arrived back in Outhgill my phone rang. Bowland Climber was on the move in Glasson and was offering to visit me with some smoked mackerel from Glasson's renowned smokehouse but that was mot now possible - a missed delight. That was not all. BC has been everywhere and when I said I was in Outhgill he asked if I had seen the Andy Goldsworthy Pine Cone installation there and he gave me directions - it was only about a hundred yards from where I was standing. I have visited several of Andy's sculptural installations. Andy is putting up new installations on a regular basis and his website is worth a VISIT .

BC had other adventures on his Glasson trip and his LATEST POST is worth a read.

Setting off through the churchyard

Wild Boar Fell dominates

Crossing R. Eden after the churchyard

Cottages and farmhouse at Shoregill

Low Corklake house and rusty barn where I chatted with the couple

Isolated lime kiln. Possible indication of the source of limestone above

From here I could see the return road route plod across the other side of the river

Twenty minutes later I would have encountered the 4WD convoy here

Looking back at Lammerside Castle. The 4WD convoy was down in the valley beyond

The main convoy was hidden behind trees. I got this zoom of the leader but they were taking ages to pass through. I got the next one, see below but then got bored waiting for the others.

A pleasing bit of silver birch

Crossing the R. Eden at my furthest north - water very low

Pendragon Castle - 12th Century I think

Andy Goldsworthy's Pine Cone, and below