Day 28 - Orton to Patterdale

Day 29 - Orton to Patterdale

Stayed In b and b last night - Mostyn House. Ate in The George i think, not sure of name.

Off at 8.15. long road walk to just south of Shap. Halfway rain started. Wets on. Up into Wet Sleddale which lived up to its name. Driving rain all the way to Mosedale Cottage. This is a bothy in the middle of nowhere. Arrived about 1.15. Thought I would stay the night In view of conditions so got cooking stuff out and made cup a soup etc and stayed about an hour and a half, then the weather improved and after some deliberation I decided to go for Patterdale. This involved a trek to Gatesgarth Pass, climbing to it's summit then continuing the ascent to Harter Fell. From Harter Fell I was descending Nan Bield Pass, a sort of rocky, notchy coll, and I fell. I cut a vein in my shin. A rapidly applied Elastoplast failed to stem the flow and blood was pouring into my sock and boot. I had a bandage and applied this which seemed to stop the bleeding. I have to say that I was cross. I have never felt so fit in my life and was going so well. It was still a long way to top out of Nan Bield and trek accross to Thornthwaite Beacon, from where i descended via Threshthwaite Cove. I had not been down there before and it was a treacherous descent and then a long walk out to the Patterdale road. I passed three b and bs with no vacancies and eventually got to The Patterdale Hotel At about 7.45 so I had been on the go for near twelve hours but I did not feel particularly tired, just annoyed about the leg. I managed to negotiate a double room down from £104 to £67 b and b. It was too late to get food there so I went accross the road to The White Lion, but suddenly found I could hardly walk even though I had marched hard for five miles or so over hard mountain terrain with hardly any pain.
At this poiint I knew for certain that I would not be able to continue. The distance between where I am staying and where I ate is only about fifty yards and on the way back I found a Vodaphone sweet spot and was able to phone good friends Pete and Liz who are coming to pick me up in the morning. I reckon I was only about two days short of finishing.

The Patterdale Hotel where I am staying is where I spent my honeymoon in 1970. I seem to remember the bill for four nights dinner b and b was £36.

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Day 27 - Brough to Orton

Last night in The Castle at Brough I was struggling trying to post and the landlord said I could use his wi fi for free. I had turned wi fi off for some reason suggested by Vodafone. I switched back on and was able to post.

I had a good meal - the latest pub cliche: turf and surf, ie rump steak with battered scampi.

After the meal I chatted with three middle aged rock climbers who had been climbing locally and we had some good reminiscing. One of them had done all the well known sea stacks and had some good tales to tell. These guys departed and then I got into conversation with an elderly local farmer. He wanted to be retired but said he had to keep on doing a bit because he could not live on the £90 pw pension. He was a genuinely decent guy with a tolerant attitude to access on farm land. He told me of some wealthy business people who had bought land localy and were paranoid about people trespassing - he didn't like these people.

Pleasant walking today still with decent weather; a mixture of field paths, and very minor roads. This was only about a twelve mile day and I took it fairly easy. There were no stopping places. The route took me over Aisalby Scar, a limestone plateau with great views of The Howgills, and back to to the Cross Fell part of The Pennines.

There are no camp sites at Orton so I am in a b and b. The pub was closed when I arrived but should be open for an evening meal. There is a post office where I was able to get some cash and stock up on a few items for my entry into The Lake District tomorrow.

Orton has some nostalgia for me. I did quite a number of mountain bike rides from here a while ago, and there was a cafe, which has now closed, run by a motherly lady who baked all the goodies herself; she was known with affection by many cyclists and walkers. Another point about this pleasant little village is that i believe it is the nearest I will be to my home on this walk.

Stile count. Sorry folks, I have now lost count but it stands at somewhere around 75.
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Day 26 - Barnard Castle to Brough

The food at The Old Well in Barnard Castle was above average for normal pub grub. I had so called pate de fois gras, fish pie, and a praline caramel cheese cake. No wine was offered which seems to be common with the run of the mill pubs I gave visited on this trip. I suppose it would be available if asked for, but then it would be unlikely to be offering a well considered list so why bother to ask?

I think I said I was staying at The Golden Lion - it was actually The Coach and Horses, which had nothing much to recommend it. I actually walked into the other one and backed out very quickly.

The walk today has been enjoyable. Despite a rain forecast I had good weather except for a five minute shower which made me don my waterproof jacket for the first time in twenty four days. As it turned out I wouldn't have bothered but kept it on in consideration of the strong wind. Initial walking was through parkland following the river. A road section lead past reservoirs and chats with fishermen. Next came a six mile trek accross wild Stainmore Common moorland and not a soul to be seen - all wild and wonderful with curlews and oyster catchers in abundance.

It turned out to be a long day with arrival in Brough at about 5.30 but thankfully The Castle had accomodation, and despite first impressions has turned out to be comfortable, and the rump steak I asked for at medium rare was cooked to perfection. I seem to be having a run of destinations without camp sites and I'm not sure if I am engineering this on purpose.

Stile count has gone a bit astray, by it has now rocketed to 70 plus.
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Day 25 - Darlington to Barnard Castle

Last night Blackwell Grange Hotel was on the face of it quite luxurious, but it was full of Americans and Japanese on what appeared to be two different organised parties. I had a conversation with an ex US colonel who seemed to have been everywhere and done everything "...I love my country, but..." and "I served my country for 32 years, but..." the follow on from buts being criticism of Bush and various others and the strictures put on the military by presidents etc. He said he had met both Prince Charles and Margaret That her. Everything he said came accross as an oft repeated monologue which qdidn't, seem 'to relate to real conversation.

I had a sirloin steak which was tough.

Breakfast was a shambles. A huge dining room, self service for everything except beverages and toast. I had my breakfast on mg table then had to wander off and find a waitress to get some tea by which tome the breakfast wasnearly cold - all a bit dreary considering the price I was paying.

Walking wAs easy to start with following The Teesdale Way, but developed into another nettle fest for some time, then I missed a sign and ended up in more trouble. I was accosted by a farmer, in a reasonably friendly manner. I knew where I was but he was convinced I was totally lost. I got back on track and slogged on. In between the easy and the hard bits I hit gold in Gainsford at The Laurels Cafe; I just spotted it down at the end of an alley about thirty yards off the main road. It was run by the lady proprietor and her assistant and they were very kind to me. I had a bacon and egg butty, two pots of tea and piece of Yorkshire Curd Tart. Everything was home made. This was a pleasant stop.

I eventually got to Barnard Castle about 4.30 and decided on hotel accommodation. There are quite a lot of hotels in BC but most of them cater for disco, karioke, or very large screen very loud football ( yes I know I have used "very" twice but it was intentional).

Eventually I have a basic room at The Golden Lilon which does not do evening meal, and I intend to eat at The Old Well where I would have preferred to stay but it was full.




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Day 25 - Darlington to Barnard Castle

ELast night Blackwell Grange Hotel was on the face of it quite luxurious, but it was full of Americans and Japanese on what appeared to be two different organised parties. I had a conversation with an ex US colonel who seemed to have been everywhere and done everything "...I love my country, but..." and "I served my country for 32 years, but..." the follow on from buts being criticism of Bush and various others and the strictures put on the military by presidents etc. He said he had met both Prince Charles and Margaret Thatcher. Everything he said came accross as an oft repeated monologue which didn't seem 'to relate to real conversation.

I had a sirloin steak which was tough.

Breakfast was a shambles. A huge dining room, self service for everything except beverages and toast. I had my breakfast on my table then had to wander off and find a waitress to get some tea by which time the breakfast was nearly cold - all a bit dreary considering the price I was paying.

Walking was easy to start with following The Teesdale Way, but developed into another nettle fest for some time, then I missed a sign and ended up in more trouble. I was accosted by a farmer, in a reasonably friendly manner. I knew where I was but he was convinced I was totally lost. I got back on track and slogged on. In between the easy and the hard bits I hit gold in Gainsford at The Laurels Cafe; I just spotted it down at the end of an alley about thirty yards off the main road. It was run by the lady proprietor and her assistant and they were very kind to me. I had a bacon and egg butty, two pots of tea and piece of Yorkshire Curd Tart. Everything was home made. This was a pleasant stop.

I eventually got to Barnard Castle about 4.30 and decided on hotel accommodation. There are quite a lot of hotels in BC but most of them cater for disco, karioke, or very large screen very loud football ( yes I know I have used "very" twice but it was intentional).

Eventually I have a basic room at The Golden Lilon which does not do evening meal, and I intend to eat at The Old Well where I would have preferred to stay but it was full.


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Day 24 - Yarm to Darlington

Yesterday Mick and Gayle picked me up on the outskirts of Yarm and took me back to the Caravan Club site at Stockton.

They had brought me a set of titanium tent pegs that look very much like surgical instruments, but very welcome.

We had a meal in the pub next door and never stopped talking - it was good to see them again - they are so enthusiastic and full of plans ideas and knowledge, and above all they are doers

This morning I was presented with a bacon and egg breakfast by M and G, and we were off for about 8.0 back to my finishing point of yesterday. Gayle drove off to park the car in Yarm then meet us after we had walked up the road. M and G walked with me to Hurworth from where they would get a bus back to Yarm and their car.

The walking, following The Teesdale Way was easy at first but then there was a long section of difficult going through very long grass and along the edge of crop fields. Much of the time the growth was above our heads and there was a good distribution of nettles. There were also dire notices about Giant Hogweeds and I hope none of us sccumb to their dangers. Brave Mick was the trail blazer and I followed (unfortunately wearing shorts) and Gayle came on behind. I had been boasting that I had encountered hardly any nettles so far on this trip after reading Gayle's woeful account of her experiences nearer home. At one stage we met a gang of youths and their supervisors all armed with petrol driven strimmers - pity we didn't come a day later after they had done the bit we had walked on.

I left M and G at the bus stop and carried on to Stapleton where there is a pub marked on the OS map, but it had no accomodation and did not even open until 5.30. I tried two or three people for camping but had no luck and it was now about 4.00 pm. I walked another couple of miles nearly into Darlington and found The Blackwell Grange Hotel.

Unfortunately for M and G the walking today was not of best quality but it was great to have their company- thanks for everything M and G.



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Day 23 - Geeat Ayton to Yarm

Last night The King's Head was very comfortable. I had a reasonable meal but not really up to the price charged. Mackrel fillets were served with skin left on. In the bar there were two girls in succession who had no idea of how to pull a pint. There were two guest beers. The first was called Kickers I think, anyway it was something to do with football, and against my better judgement I tried it. ABV was 4 p.cent which is too strong for my liking, and it had a very bitter taste. The other was a dark mild at just over 3p.cent. I would never drink dark mild by choice so there was really nothing for the regular fan of real ale.

On the menu was an item of "hors d'oeuvres ", but it was spelt "au douvres".

Today, after getting under way I started getting. decent signal. And received an email from Mick and Gayle, and we arranged to meet in Yarm, motor to the CarVan Club site at Stockton, and eat out, then they will walk with me tomorrow, starting of course from where I left off today.

Walking has been a bit mundane today with Tarmac and crop fields - I am back on the flat plains again now. I passed through nowhere in the day to buy anything which is a bit rare on this trip.

We are now encamped at Stockton and looking forward to the evening meal.

M and G have also brought me some proper titanium tent pegs - thanks.

I got a call from My friend Pete who is 76 today and had a good chat. Many happy returns Pete.



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