Cawdale, west of Shap

 Tuesday 1st. April 2025

The best walk (on my own) for a long time.

Cloudless blue sky. Warmish, best for walking temperature. Remote location. Top of the world ambience. Exploration of an area new to me. 

The first photo is of my Kia Sportage. I have had this for about five months. One feature is the electric sliding sunroof. Today,  just before I joined the M6, I decided to welcome this year's first warm weather by opening that gadget for the first time. Within seconds on the M6 I felt "stuff" raining on my head. A mixture of insects and small bits of black, unidentifiable debris and goodness knows what else. There is a complex of buttons in the roof controlling the sunroof and some interior lighting and I couldn't find the sunroof one while driving. I had to put up with that until I left the M6 at Shap. I don't normally do Spring Cleaning, but for the car that is now a job awaiting.

Winding narrow lanes from Shap took me to just about as remote a location as one can get by road in England. Anticipation of vehicles approaching from the opposite direction gave cause for apprehension akin to playing Russian Roulette. Fortunately, both going snd returning I only met a couple of other vehicles with no great problem.

My objective was to explore Cawdale, at least as far as the path ending shown on the OS map. Inital road walking was pure joy. An indication of the remoteness was underlined by gated roads, something that is rare these days, most having been replaced by cattle grids. This is certainly the land of exemplary dry stone walls. We all know that they are constructed from irregular, random stones, but here the shapes were particularly challenging. Suffice to say their clever construction, not immediately apparent, has stood the test of time going back hundreds of years. I found a well written article with much information I was unaware of which is worth a look:

CLICK IF YOU WANT TO READ

To the east I had the longest continuous stretch of the Pennines in view for most of the day. I can't recall  such an extensive, day long aspect from any other location in the past, and it conveyed an impressive impression of the scale of this valuable icon of our heritage.

Despite the remoteness of the area my route passed several old farms now mostly converted to holiday accommodation. I wondered if the owners give fair warming to potential customers of the hazardous road approaches with large SUVs and the like.

Eventually after passing the last of those complexes I was rewarded with a surprise first view into Cawdale from an elevated position. A well engineered wide green path lead down to  the floor of the dale.   The atmosphere of silence, wilderness and  overall beauty of this kind of environment is something that does wonders for my soul.

When I arrived at the end of the OS marked path I could see a spur dropping into the left of the dale perhaps half a mile further on. That would give me access to a view round into the head of the valley. A bit  beyond what I had anticipated being able to achieve. A lesser path continued and I saw my view round the corner into the head of Cawdale. I was looking down to my right to Cawdale Beck below and an entrancing waterfall with ancient dilapidated sheepfolds on the bank. I could see there was an advantageous path on the other side of the beck to improve my return. I descended and managed to cross the stream and sat for my snack and coffee with a view of the waterfall and the head of the valley beyond. Perfect.

The return journey coincided for a while before I picked up the end of the tarmac road where my car was parked half a mile further down. I noticed there was potential parking at the end of that tarmac which could lead to a circuit out of the head of Cawdale snd return by The Hause. We will see.

My route climbed the road behind my car

I turned right near the stand of trees in the distance

Challenging stone shapes for the drystone wall

Architect's website reveals high end property conversion. My research failed to find a translation for the name

Steil, Bampton

Howe Farm. I branched off through a gate before the farm

My route through the gate.

Our restoration of a remote 17th C. farmhouse with the integration of renewable technologies and conversion of a bank barn and byre hemp lime insulation within an air-tight envelope quickly became an archetype for the rejuvenation of traditional Lakeland buildings.  This project won two RIBA Awards, including the Regional Award for 

Vaugh Stei

Moorahill Farm, and below. 

Note Rookery behind

Unusual sort of alleyway path between fields

Lower Callhullan Farm - holiday cottages...

...and Upper Calhullan. Footpath goes between end of white building and one to its left

I saw lots of fell ponies

First view of Cawdale and the engineered path leading down.

I part ascended the spur between the trees until I could see into the head of Cawdale

Looking up towards the head of the Dale. My furthest point.
Next photo looking down right from there to...

...Cawdale Beck with waterfall and old sheepfolds. I descended and crossed the stream

My lunch spot looking up to the head of the dale

Anti-clockwise from Hullockhowe

I tried to copy and paste info. from the estate agent's blurb mentioned above. It must have been copywriten or whatever and it played havoc with my positioning of the photos. I spent ages but gave it up as a bad job.

Kentmere (east)

Wednesday 26th March 2025 

Just little foray into the Lake District.

I had been searching on the map for previously unwalked territory. I am not one for often repeating previous routes, I prefer the interest of discovering new  ground.

Parking at the road end in Kentmere is from my previous experience a lottery with cars jammed in tight and an unlikely chance of finding a spot, but it is years since I have been there and things may have changed? There are a few spots on the  road opposite the factory about two kms. before the road end. I have used those before for circuits on the western side of Kentmere and I parked there today.

After a short walk back down the road a path ascends to the east for about a kilometre and steep enough to be a serious challenge for my breathless affliction. I plodded with tiny rhythmical steps, oh so slowly, and was heartened only to take few rests on the way. Dare I think there was some improvement in my condition? I don't think so really, but one never knows.

It was so good to be on those well worn Lakeland tracks and  to have distant views of the Kentmere Horseshoe. The gentle undulations were traversed on firm dry ground and a great feeling of silence and peace prevailed. I have recently carped about the overcrowding in the Lakes, but today I take that back, it really is walking country at its best especially if you seek out the less trodden areas.

Leaving the road to start the one kilometre ascent

About halfway up.
There is an ambitious tree planting operation afoot here which at the moment scars the landscape, but when matured will likely look attractive

Path off to my right wending up to Millrig Knott, 300m.

The Kentmere Horseshoe. with the sun trying hard to break through 

Pleasant descent back down to the quiet road. Only about three cars passed me on the kilometre road walk back to the car.
 All was quiet in Kentmere today.

Bizarre tree. Succulent looking dark green leaves. Any guesses?
It would appear to have been severely lopped

Back up to the head of Kentmere

A tractor for Alan.
 In a recent post he commented on the dearth of tractors, so even though this is not rare (I think?) it was the only one I saw. I have mo doubt that Alan will spot something unusual? Perhaps its tyres are on the wrong way round?

Start/finish at Philipson's Wood. anti-clockwise

Hawes Water (Silverdale) circuit

Wednesday 19th March 2025

Being honest with oneself sometimes needs some effort. My prime objective today was to continue with my model making. I am making a dilapidated French barn diorama to pose my Achilles WW2 tank accompanied by a heavy lorry which has arrived to re-fuel the tank as they press on from D Day and Normandy. The construction has reached an absorbing stage. However, the clear blue sky and at last warm sunshine cried out for a walk. See the quote from Wind in the Willows on the side panel of this blog. This all sparked off debate in my mind. The brief opportunity for a good walk contrasted with the model making, which would still be waiting regardless. After a mind game tussle honesty favored the model making.  As it happened I progressed with making 1 to 35 scale bricks and I still had time to set off about midday to drive a short distance from home for a most enjoyable little walk. I don't suppose honesty always pays off, but this time I was well rewarded.

Hawes Water, the one near Silverdale, has had many visits over the years and  it has always had an air of mystery for me. It is not possible to get an overall view of the lake from any vantage point, nor can one get near to the shore which is surrounded by reed beds.

From: hawes-water

"Hawes water is the largest pond in the AONB. In fact, despite its modest size, it is the largest natural water source in the whole of Lancashire. It is a 12.5 metre deep depression where the limestone has collapsed, forming a sinkhole or ‘doline’. It is lined with a sticky layer of calcium carbonate called ‘Marl’ which is covered in peat and the distinct clay formed from this geology has been used for local pottery. "

We also have our own Loch Ness type myth:

 A giant eel or snake is said to have lived in the lake and sometimes to have taken lambs.

Anti-clockwise from P

Trowbarrow - a regular climbing venue in times past!

Hedge laying to make an impenetrable hedge. They regrow from not being cut right through

End of tarmac continues with this path to Hawes Water

My Lumix camera is hors de combat.
 Either me or my my unergonomic iPhone have decided to try and empty Hawes Water

At my last visit only a few months ago there were just stiles on either side of the track. Now we have all this infrastructure. The money may have been better spent filling a few potholes?

Millhouse Gill (Middleton Fell)

 Saturday 8th March 2025

Part of this walk was included in the story of the Roman Milestone in July 2020

 click if you want to view

There are a number of steep sided gills that run east/west from the Middleton Fell complex which fascinate me but access is limited. Browsing the map it seemed that Millhouse Gill would be accessible. After weeks of shivering cold misery at last spring has made a temporary appearance. The forecast was warm and sunny and off I went.

From my Roman Milestone visit I knew I could park in the church carpark, the church being mo longer in use. My aim was to ascend enough distance to be able to see into the gill and actually get onto some wilder country instead of plodding round farmer's fields but with my breathless affliction I knew that would not be easy.

Apart from my own liberation from the winter weather motorcyclists had also taken advantage and they were out in force, but after only a hundred yards I was away from the main road.

There is an attractive cul-de-sac public road leading to Mill House, so no access problem so far.  Where the OS map shows the end of the public road I suppose the entrance to Millhouse is mow private although there is no such indication and a public footpath continues into the property before turning off right after about thirty yards, and just before the  wall that is within the booundary of the access land.   Looking very carefully at the OS 1:25 it seems the boundary for the access land includes the high wall but this is now blocked by a high padlocked gate with the track quite obvious on the other side leading off into the  uncultivated fell side. 

Looking at this  Middleton Fell access area stretching five miles from north to south, there are only three access points on the western side, one at the northern tip, and one at the south, and  one in between, and debatably none on the eastern side. 

The CROW Act of 2000 designated many large areas as access land for the public. However, often there is no public right of way to enter many of those spaces, or  they are so infrequent as to make much of the land in practical terms inaccessible, so it is all a bit of nonsense.

I do not like to trespass if I can help it but I had come this far with the specific objective of exploring Millhouse Gill (on access land) as far as my physical limitation would allow. I found a gate from the property through some marshy land leading to another gate out onto the access land but putting me on the wrong side of a wall. I followed that until another gate lead to  the track skirting the northern edge of the gill. I found a good spot to sit and have my sandwich and coffee looking down into the gill and with extensive views in all directions. All was peace and quiet and I lingered there for over half an hour before returning to Millhouse and continuing my circular walk.

At Low Fellside the public footpath skirted the property but I was hailed by the owner and he kindly offered to let me take a shortcut through his property. We had quite a long and enjoyable conversation. He told me that since the extension of the Lake District National Park he sees many more visitors who are not really walkers driving cars up his private road, leaving litter, and wandering over his private property. On a brighter note I wish him well on his forthcoming plan to walk the West Highland Way.

I was glad to be able to see some of Millhouse Gill but it would have been so much better if I could have followed it further, but I suppose at 85 I should be thankful to get as far as I did.

On my drive home, just after passing the hundreds of motor bikes at Devil's Bridge, their traditional weekend pilgrimage venue, I had to make the right turn onto the A65 . I had to wait ages for a gap.  I think the whole world had turned out to welcome this spell of good weather. Eventually the traffic from the right gave me a chance but then a line of eight motorcyclists approached from the left to turn right onto my Devil's Bridge Road. The leader kindly stopped the whole line and politely waived me through. We need more of that and obliteration of Orange Man and P. Can't the former comprehend that the latter will do him over?

Parking at the church carpark just the other side.This dales road is iconic motor cyclists heaven

Millhouse Gill is the obvious cleft centre of the photo

Holiday cottages proliferate everywhere these days

Pink string!

Approaching Millhouse holiday cottages

"Entrance" to the access land is only a few yards beyond that far left turn of the path

So much for the CROW Act

After finding a way through a couple of gates I was now on the wrong side of the wall.
I was able cross near the distant bend through another gate

I had my snack and a highly pleasureable sojourn to the left of this photo

Looking up the gill from my rest stop

Back at Millhouse cottages. The blocking gate is just out of shot to the left. 
Note the "camouflaged" footpath sign against the cottage wall.

This and the next two.
 The line opened in 1860, and ran from Clapham, through Ingleton, Kirkby Lonsdale, Barbon, Middleton-on-Lune, Sedbergh and Lowgill, before joining what is now the West Coast main line, just south of Tebay. There was once a station at Barbon – we will pass the site later in the walk.16 Dec 2023

Bentham Footpath Group

https://benthamfootpathgroup.co.uk › barbon-beck-and...

Looking back up to Millhouse Gill

Blue route as I originally plotted.
Top red shows my diversion to gain the access land.
Bottom red shows shortcut offered by proprietor of Low Fell Side

Red, my diversion. Blue as originally plotted

Detail of proximity to access land. Note public footpath extending beyond road into property.
Red line shows my solution.
Thin blue line shows my original plot.

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