Monday 3rd August 2026
I continue this camapign for walking Lady Anne's way in bits. Unfortunately at my ration of 4/5miles I am only walking half the distance on the route having to return to the start by a circular route. I am not at all bothered about that, it is just such a great pleasure to be walking and exploring any new terrirory, and today I rekon my curate must have bought fresh eggs because it was "all good."
I am driving via Sedbergh and the twelve mile stretch from there to Kirkby Stephen on the A683. This road is almost devoid of traffic. I have driven it twice now in both directions and have not had another vehicle in front or behind or overtaking and the road progresses in a series of enjoyable bends with great views almost all the way into the Howgills on the western side
There is a good lay-by just south of Nateby at exactly the point where thr LDP meets the road. After good paths into Nateby the way follows a sunken medieval lane but with good views and thoughts of the old traders and perhaps pilgrims with pack animals. making their way from village to village.
At one point I notice a large boulder built into the wall with an inscription. It is unreadable firstly through weathering and secondly because of a difficult stylised script. Later in Kirkby Stphen I detoured to the Visitor Centre to see if they had some information. Two jolly ladies sold me a booklet for £2.00 which details Meg Peacock's eleven poem poetry trail, the poems having been been skilfully engraved into stones along the way by artist Pip Hall.
Now here I have to say that there is a kind of friendly rivalry going on between my friend Bowland Climber and myself about who has or has not visited venues we both come across on our wanderings. Back home I perused the booklet which has a map with the poems numbered one to eleven but unfortuntely those numbers are not collated with the script where each peom is only dentified by the month of the year to which it refers, and also there is no showing of the poems themsleves. Wanting to see the poems I turned to Google and the first hit, top of the first page, was Bowland Climber's post from November 2023 on which I commented. BC had walked the whole trail and his post is superbly detailed and enhanced with really good photos especially as there was a lively abundance of water in the rivers and streams. I highly recommend you to visit.
BC had found the text of the poems and here are the two I found before I knew there was a whole trail, the second one being a little further on from the one decribed above. It was strangely plonked in the middle of a stream and not easy to get close to. Apparently whilst being manoeuvred into position at the time it fell conveniently into a perfect resting place and so was left as was.
Here is the text from the two I found.
From field and fell run cols run small. I am the rain tear in the eye blood in the vein I am the sea.
Coltsfoot, celandine, earliest daisies. Twin lambs race to the mother, baby cries, Mam! Mam! Jolt out of them and now they jostle the ragged ewe, boosting each split hoof high off the bitten turf. Pinching jaws and hard curled coats are braced against these April suns and sleets.
I will have to see if rhe next section of this campaign takes me to somewhere that may be new to BC, not easy!
Just past that second stone I crossed a footbridge over a tributary of the River Eden and on the other side was a gate with a footpath sign pointing back down to the riverside. It seemed unlikely but I followed the river round rhe corner for about thirty yards before retreating, but a huge crag of red sandstone towered over the stream on the far bank contrasting with the white limestone of the stream bed itself, an interesting bit of geology.
Pleasant walking took me to Kirkby Stephen and a joining with the Coast to Coast LDP at Frank's Bridge. Frank was the proprietor of a brewery, long gone I learned. After the Visitor Centre detour I came back and continued to my turning point at Low Mill Bridge where I noted good parking for the start of my next section. I returned by pleasant lanes, good field footpaths and some tarmac to my car. It seems I am following stretches of the river Eden so I am filling in a bit more of the Eden Way that I abandoned a while back after several forays from further north.
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| Today's route purple. Green: Lady Anne's Way |