Why I'll never walk The Eden Way

Saturday 25th May 2024 - Eden Way - River mouth to Cargo

I bought a guide for the Eden Way then found it is written sea to source; I'd been walking from the source. The obvious solution didn't dawn for a while. If I formulate a plan I tend  to stick to it and when circumstances suggest better I have a masochistic urge to resist change,  but there was money involved here, and an innate respect for books. I couldn't bear to consign Stuart Greig's The Eden Way to the "It Seemed Like a Good Idea at the Time Drawer," so an honourable settlement had to be devised.

Ah! Why not walk it the other way round!

 That took a bit of swallowing but once on board I was full of anticipation.

As a lone walker one has to settle for a circular walk thereby only achieving half the distance on the route, or get somebody to accommodate you at one end or the other.

I phoned a taxi firm. The start of this walk perversely inflicts a there and back mile each way because it is only accessible on foot. The nearest entry is north of Rockcliffe. I phoned the day before for a taxi to pick me up at the cul-de-sac village of Cargo where my six miles on the route would end, and then drive me to the start.

 "We need an address" -  the village straggles over about a mile. I backed off and searched Google Earth.

A small business called Pet Portraits at an address on the village street popped up. A link took me to their site and post code.  The intransigent taxi firm was satiated.

My six miles would end about quarter of a mile further down the village road and then another quarter of a mile on track down to the river. I parked at the road end and walked back to Pet Portraits. There was no evidence of the business at the house and anyway I haven't any pets at the moment, but...

...serendipity, there was a bench to sit on. As I was early and the taxi was late the bench was good value for that extended wait.

The taxi driver was east European and seemed bemused at my walking exploits. and enquired in quite a concerned manner as to whether my family were worried about me venturing out like this. It is such things that make one realise how we are all so different with our thoughts and perceptions.

It was only just after 9:00 am and as I walked up the expanse of he grassy flood plain of the river Eden it was obviously peak hour for dog walking and the oft repeated greeting "Nice day isn't it?"

 Cows in groups were encountered until within about three hundred yards of a supposed finger post marking the start of the walk the land ahead was scattered with perhaps a hundred cows, bullocks and what was obviously a fully mature bull. There was no way through. I'm pretty confident with cows but this was potential jeopardy. Reluctantly I turned and headed back feeling a bit of a wimp and recalling a phrase from Stuart Greig's guide about shortcutting the there and back - "Anyone who does this would be unable to claim having walked the length of the Eden..."

Once back on the new territory I never saw or heard a soul for the rest of the walk.

The river is massive and flows through at a good pace hurrying to get to the sea and dominating the landscape with grand views ahead. Birds of the swift or sand martin families were evident at intervals. The walking terrain was mainly grassy and apart from the river somewhat boring and further on there were a few crop fields ploughed out to leave only an awkward trough for walking at the edge - all a a bit tiresome. This part of the Eden Way has been adopted by the English Coast Path and all stiles have been replaced with those galvanised circular metal gates - I suppose in time they will weather, but still welcome to me replacing knee-wrecking stiles. At one point the approach to one was flooded and impassable. I followed where others had obviously been, crawling underneath a barbed wire fence after doffing my rucksack and making my two replacement knees do things they didn't want to.

Emerging from hawthorn bushes lining the path a large white house appeared set back thirty yards from the river, but looking forlorn and uninhabited. I walked round the back to find a bricked up window and other suggestions of preventing unauthorised entrance. A home made hot tub provided seating and I had my lunchtime snack and coffee. There were plaques high up on the wall.

Internet  searching back home revealed a website posted by the owner. It seems that he purchased this to let out as a basic back to nature holiday let, and despite its abandoned appearance I deduced that it is still operating.The website has much more detailed information including a short video tour inside and outside. Here is the initial summary but it is interesting to have look at the owners descriptions and jaunty style which can be read through in a few minutes. I don't think I'll be making a booking.

https://kinggarth.co.uk/

THE HISTORY

Built in 1733, King Garth is also known as The Old Customs House, reflecting its role in these fraught times of smuggling. Its strategic position on the banks of The Eden served as the perfect lookout for a bailiff employed by Carlisle Corporation to protect the very important salmon fishery. The plaques on the building which commemorate the visits by Mayors date back to the 1700s. These visits no doubt involved indulgent banquets centring around freshly caught salmon

also the plaques on the walls refer to:

Jospeh Ferguson the first  freely elected lord mayor of Carlisle who visited King Garth after the passing of the Municipal Reform Act 20th June 1857

My Internet searching revealed conflicting dates for the act and the mayor's dates. All a bit confusing.

I trudged on to finish the walk and was glad that I had left the car as near the end of the footpath as I could. I would rate this at say 6.5 out of 10. That is not to criticise the guide which is well written by Stuart W. Greig, an author of much experience.

The bench outside Pet Portraits.
 A good twenty minutes wait for the taxi. Half me early, half taxi late

First sight of River Eden today

Cows that looked far too curious but passable at this stage but...

... not across this lot to get to the official starting point. There were bullocks and a large mature bull.
Here I retreated

Now back on new ground looking upstream

Rockcliffe church spire in background

More cows. They looked so bored they hardly moved - just gave me the eye

I tried but soon gave up after seeing a gap under the fence a few yards to the right of the photo where others had been

I think my limbo dancing days are over

England Coast Path sign

The crop field bits were yet to come

Never saw anybody for over four hours. Then this appeared, pristine and ostensibly fresh from the shop.
Utterly surreal

King Garth from the edge of the river - other photos round the back

"Jospeh Ferguson the first  freely elected lord mayor of Carlisle who visited King Garth after the passing of the Municipal Reform Act 20th June 1857"

Home made hot tub

Looking back to King Garth

My bêtte noire
Crop field ploughed out to edge eliminating the public footpath - awkward walking 

Red my route. blue Eden Way, courtesy of Long Distance Walking Association