Thursday 23rd July 2026
A curate's egg walk. However, we start with the good bit.
There is a small lay-by opposite the Moorcock Inn which I knew of but was not sure if it was for exclusive use for Moorcock's customers, fortuntely there was no such indication and at 9:00am it was vacant: a good start.
The Pennine Bridleway climbs from the Moorcock up to the High Way, also known as St. Anne's Way, Old Road, et al. My objective was to fill in part of that track not previously trodden by me. That is one of the very best of those old dales lanes for good easy going and magnificent views.
After only a hundred yards on the track I was rewarded by two black grouse rising up and chortling off as they do. A little further on I had a rare chance to get a photo of what I think was a Red Admiral butterfly which against all my experiences of butterfly photography remained still long enough.
It is a steep ascent, but I went well. but still restricted by my breathing affliction.
Once on the more or less level High Way it was all delight. I felt I wanted to to make this part of the walk last longer than this relatively short stretch would require. I stopped to sit on a limestone rock for a coffee from my flask soaaking up the panoramic view and my ascent from the Moorcock, and away on the horizon The Calf, highest in the Howgills. As I was enjoying all this in the now warm sunshine I became aware of rhythmical steps approaching from behind. A lady backpacker arrived and we chatted. She was walking all of St. Anne's Way and was obviously a veteran backpacker with a good lightweight sack with everything stripped down to a comfortable carrying weight; she was moving quckly and anxious to be off. I am aware of Lady Anne's Way which covers about a hundred miles from Skipton to Penrith. On my return home I researched it a bit more. I would guess this rivals the Dalesway and the Dales High Way for a superbly represntative dales walk.
As I continued focus was now switched from The Calf to Wild Boar Fell ahead. Reluctantly I had to leave The High Way and descend by Shaws with their stone stairway through their garden, then on down to Beck Side and Lunds Church. That part of this walk I had done on a recent walk posted here, but at least this time it was in the opposite direction. I now had the choice of walking out to the road or following footpaths back to the Moorcock as pre-planned. I decided on the latter. That turned out to be the bad part of the curate's egg. From Beck side I walked a couple of hundred yards uphill on the wrong path (see the red line on the map below) and had to trek back down through high reeds and tussocks, supposedly to get back on the proper path. That turned out to be non-existant as were the rest of those paths shown on the map.. I battled on as the now midday sun intensified. That was hard going through reeds and tussocks and I was becoming decidedly hot and bothered. I looked for the shortest possible route to get back to the road, but even that was still quite long way in that kind of terrain. Fortunately the road only carries light traffice, but motor bikes whizz past at alarming speed.
I would not recommend anybody to use any of that network of paths between Beck side and The Moorcock. Today I had at least the bonus of everything being dry but if wet at all I reckon it would be even more of a nightmare.
I may consider walking other sections of Lady Anne's Way if circular routes cn be plotted without reed and tussock thrashing in the lowlands.
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| Just leaving the road from the Moorcock |
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| The old and the new bridges (see next photo) |
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| The infant River Ure - typical limestone streamery |
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| Red Admiral? Admirably still! |
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Dandrymire Viaduct, built 1869/1875.
OK, it's a great achivement, but 6 years to build! |
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| Back down to The Moorcock |
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| Now on the High Waay |
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| Blades. A solitary existence at over 300m. |
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| My earlier viewing of black grouse seems to indicate they are having some success |
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| Unusual limekiln, somebody wanted to try their skills at arch building? |
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| No need for the bridge today. We are in the midst of heat waves - the shape of things to come, all a bit worrying |
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| Reluctantly leaving the High Way for the descent and then Part 2 of the curate's egg |
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| The steps down through the garden at Shaws. |
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| Beck Side. Turn left for reeds and tussocks |
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| Back to the Moorcock |
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| Anti clockwise from the Moorcock. The red lines are diversions from thr plotted blue route |
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