Boston to Barmouth - day 6

Friday 11th September

The Falcon at Long Whatton last night was mediocre.

On arrival there was only a young girl behind the bar. I never saw anybody more senior. She handed me the room key and said the room was down the yard at the back of the pub. That was a fifty yard walk to a purpose built annexe. My room was miniature with just a single bed. I couldn't open any windows - there was nobody else in the annexe so I propped the door open with a stool to get fresh air from the open window on the landing. The Falcon did not serve evening meals, they told me it was a four minute walk to the pub down the road - it took me nine minutes ( admittedly I was stiff and tired after walking 18 miles, but I pity anybody less active). There was supposed to be wifi but when I tried to log on I got a message from BT saying the service was unavailable until the bill was paid! And all that inadequacy at an unreasonable £75 for nothing more than an averagely comfortable single. The exception was the very pleasant matriarchal lady, on her own, who fixed my breakfast to a high standard and attended to payment of my bill. There was nobody else in sight. I may well send a copy of this to the Falcon when I get back home.

The pub down the road provided the best food so far on the trip. Grilled smoked haddock (natural) on a crushed potato base with spinach and various subtle additions, and a strawberry desert presented on a piece of slate with about five variations on the strawberry theme set out like the plan for a Roman town.

As I type this sitting in the Bulls Head at Ashby-de-laZouch I have just had a very basic, but acceptable Cumberland sausage and mash with garden peas for £5.95. The Falcon should learn to provide at a price commensurate with what they are offering.

Breedon on the Hill was blessed with a garden centre café where I dallied too long. Early walking had been arduous over recently ploughed crop fields and the like. From Breedon there was more interest crossing the golf course and then the sudden appearance of the lake on the Melbourne estate. Although artificially landscaped this was a place of calm and contemplation. It is staggering to think how much money the landed gentry had in those days to develop these estates.

Approaching Calke I met a young lady walking her two collies and we walked together for half a mile with interesting chat and her showing me the best way to the National Trust visitor centre.

At Ashby I was too late for the TIC and eventually tracked down the Royal Hotel, a traditional English country town hotel with s good sized room, double bed and bath and a general ambience of luxury and good order.

It took me five seconds to retreat from Witherspoons - the noise was like a football cup final stadium, so here I am at the Bulls Head.

A word of warning: Ashby is the most dangerous town for road crossing I have ever encountered.




The tractor who "blocked my way" yesterday


Another rare seat after several hours non-stop walking. Pity it was a lay-by and there was a parked car with the occupant allowing cigarette smoke to drift in my direction.


Breedon the Hill - village off to the left.

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Boston to Barmouth - day 5

Wednesday - Thursday 10th September

I have been doing a stile count from the start - so far 49. In the past I never thought much about them but now I battle with every one and that combined with stopping to check the map and route guide slows down average speed. The other big influence is terrain and today a lot of it was rough going across humocky fields and round field margins with no proper path.

Last night I had booked ahead with the help of the Plough (no Vdafone signal again) into the Falcon at Long Whatton where I lie now on my bed typing at 10:50 trying to catch up. Today time ran out. I arrived in Hathern about 5:30 which is late enough when I have to wash socks etc., shower, update blog comments, write the next post and have a meal at the pub. Unfortunately I had erred and my destination pub was two miles further on at Long Whatton. Furthermore they do not provide evening meals - the other pub is ten minutes walk down the village. So when I booked in they rang and booked me a meal for 7:30. I managed to have a hot bath and tend to other chores before rushing off to the pub where I was able to type and publish yesterday's post.

In amongst the hard going there was some good walking today, over Hotton Hills and Hickling Standard. It has been a fine day, walking and weather. At one stage I was approaching the gate exit of a field when a tractor rolled up cutting the hedge and blocked my exit. That was no problem for me to wait and watch with interest, and then I was motivated to take photo. The former promptly dismounted and asked me why I was taking a photo, "are you going to report me for blocking a footpath". Well that was the kind of challenge I enjoy. I soon had him calmed down and chatting amicably about my walk and his relations etc.

The terrain is becoming more hilly now and I have been seein large blue hills ahead. I have passed close yo Cropwell Bishop and Melton Mowbray but not partaken of cheese or pies. I lunched today in Wymeswold where I bought a salad cheese sandwich and a cherry cake and two hot coffees. The former of the two ended up all over the pavement as I exited the shop trying to carry too many things at once and getting my walking poles jammed in the door.

Now it is 11:20 and I am very tired, but will try to put some photos in. Posting will be tomorrow when I can access the pub' wifi, I hope.




You need to look carefully, or click to enlarge - the items were exactly as I happened upon them. My immediate thought was "which came off first?"


Late harvest is in full swing providing images of satisfying activity


Can anybody identify this caterpillar? I have never seen anything like it before.



Bad news. Arrived at this village after four hours non stop walking to find the village seat occupied.

There seems to be a double exposure - that's never happened before.

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Cross Britain Way - day 4

Grantham to Hickling

I have got one post behind and hope to catch up tonight. But logistics are against me as I sit in the Royal Oak at long Whatton, Loughborough, but my next post will reveal all about that.

If I don't write the same day I seem to loose all spontaneity, and yesterday is a distant memory. I try to determine where I am heading each day and if possible confirm camp site existence or book accommodation. Research told me I would have no problem camping at Hickling and eating at the Plough, but there is always a modicum of anxiety as one marches as to how this will turn out.

The days walk was fine and varied with two sessions on the Grantham canal.

Arriving at the Plough I was told about a Caravan Club CL across the road. The site is in the garden and strictly by CC Club rules for a maximum of five caravans, and no tents. The aged lady was concerned about a marquee which may arrive any time for some village event (it was now 6:00pm). At the same time she was heroically looking after her husband who was in the advanced stages of Alzheimers and kept dragging some parking signs about with no obvious purpose. I commented about my brother with the same affliction and said he was in a care home, and she said, " so he should be but for me". I have to say I felt sorry for her. She let me camp (agsinst the rules) next to the little greenhouse.

I had fish and chips in the Plough. The batter was crisp, very much to my taste, but it's quantity in proportion to the large portion of properly cooked, fresh fish was out of all proportion. I finished off with Eton Mess and an excellent coffe, so not a bad meal. I navigated back across the road by headtorch and tramped through the now dew wet grass to my little tent and a fairly comfortable night.

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Cross Britain Way - day 3

Folkingham to Grantham - Tuesday 8th September

The village shop of chicken and ham pie fame, and my saviour last night came good with coffee after I had packed the wet tent. It doesn't leak but gathers condensation on the outer. Later it was spread out to dry in my palatial room at The Premier Inn, Grantham.

More varied and enjoyable walking today but with the worry of accommodation at the end of the day nagging. Premier Inn, Grantham was situated on the edge of the town and just two kilometres up the Grantham Canal from my route. I tried to phone but ended up waiting on a call centre at some extortionate cost per minute so I decided to chance getting a room on arrival.

There was only one room left, very appropriately for the disabled, and at a price which made me wonder at the burden heaped on the unfortunate. At the desk they said I may get it cheaper by booking on line, but pointed out that while I was trying to do that somebody else might beat me to it. Tired and weary and with my defences down I just let them get on with it.

Considering the cost there were no toiletries except for the hand soap dispenser, and only two tea bags, and one of the table lights didn't work.

One advantage was breakfast served from 6:30, but I failed to appear until 7:00. Fellow breakfasters seemed to be a mixture of drivers (must be the cream to be staying there) and suits. I spotted a few of the latter and was so thankful that I no longer have to live that pretence.

I am one day behind with posts. I'm typing this a day later at the Plough Inn at Hickling where I have only a limited time on wifi, and also need to get some charging done so more later including photos.


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Cross Britain Way - day 2 (on walk)

Donington to Folkingham - Monday 7th September

Observant followers may have noticed from the last few posts that The Hat has been retired - that was not an easy decision, but it had been washed and saturated so many times it had shrunk and no longer fits my head. The replacement was bought in Settle last year when I had left my old friend behind the night before (later returned to me).

Good varied walking through small villages and country paths today, but quite a lot of Tarmac. I can see me referring to the black stuff frequently, but it has mostly been on very quiet country lanes - grass growing in the middle - but this is is something I have no objection to. I know others do. Levées (here I go again RR) were also a feature but nearly all footpaths have been serviced and walking was pleasant except for traversing a couple of pathless ploughed fields, fortunately not soggy. Terrain is now undulating.

I was resigned to camping at Folkingham and had asked several people about the pub and been assured that it was seven days a week for meals. I walked up there from the campsite and "no meals on Monday". I am not carrying cooking equipment. The village shop produced a most excellent slice of chicken and ham pie from the local butcher - hunks of succulent chicken and ham and stout crumbly pastry, the anti climax being a pack of Penguins. All this eaten in the tourist info. room at the campsite in somewhat depressing isolation. Well I knew this may happen and it's all part of the adventure.




Departing Browntoft guest house



No wheelie bins with this council


One of many churches. There was one place from where you could see six



At last, somewhere to sit - n.b. Blue sit mat on corner stone


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Boston to Barmouth - day 2

Sunday 6th September 2015


Y-Not Guest House lived up to expectations again . She has one adverse comment on Trip Advisor and when Margaret told me the story it was so obvious that it was malicious, and stemmed from a company booking with which she had experienced unpaid invoice problems.

Walking has been in quite hot sunshine all day with interesting and varied terrain. Footpaths have been proper ancient, well maintained walkways between villages rather than cropfield treks. There has been some well cropped levée stuff, and minor roads have been quiet - all in all an enjoyable 16 miles walking.

I called at Wigtoft church (refreshments in aid of Macmillan). Nobody seemed to have heard of the Macmillan Cross Britain Way, and when I explained there was little comprehension - they all seemed to be in their own tiny bubble, but pleasant with it. A mug of tea and a generous slice of cake was £1.50, and when I offered considerably more in aid of the charity they seemed bewildered, but in fairness cut another slice of cake and put it on my plate.

I asked a guy if he would take a photo for me, and he looked at me as if I'd asked him to recite the periodic table backwards, but slowly grasped the idea and obliged.

Browntoft B&B at Donnington is well appointed and good value. I would recommend it to anyone.

In The Black Bull I ate in the bar and chatted with locals - strange accent hereabouts I'm not familiar with. There was an ex-army regular who was telling his partner how the first thing he would do on pay day was to pay off various debts, but his financial position didn't seem to be affecting his consumption of ale. He had been everywhere carrying 60lb rucksacks in all extremes of temperature and had been buddies with RSM, and could better, with a loud voice, any anecdote anybody else had recited.




Boston Stump (again)




Late harvesting with the gulls




Worshipping tea at Wigtoft church





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Macmillan Way (Coast to Coast)

Day 1 - Saturday 5th September 2015

Boston.

I am overnighting in Boston prior to starting this LDP tomorrow. I'm back at Y-Not guest house where I stayed earlier this year when I walked the MW Boston/Abbotsbury.

A pre-arranged visit to brother RR for a celebratory meal has dictated complicated logistics. Yesterday I drove to Hereford and stayed overnight with RR and V (thanks to you both for a good meal, good wine and good conversation).

Today I took the train from Hereford to Boston leaving my car at Hereford where I will travel to at the end of this walk for the aforementioned meal.

Regulars will know I have to wear the dreaded vascular support stockings. I had a new pair prescribed by my gp specially for this walk. When I opened them up they were the toeless kind and also flesh coloured rather than black - too late to sort out, so I have been wearing them. During the day I experienced pain in my toe joints and thought my feet had swollen in my trainers and as I walked to my B&B I slackened laces but eventually discovered it was the new stockings working like a tourniquet across the base of my toes - stockings removed - instant relief. Fortunately I brought the previous ones so I will be wearing those for the rest of the trip.

Went for a meal in a decent pub in Boston centre, 15 mins. walk. On the way back it was dark and a bit scary with groups of eastern European horticulture workers and other hoodies around. At one point a group of English youngsters addressed me, admittedly in a joking sort of way, "Have you got a spare split mate", but still a bit worrying.

I've booked a B&B in Donington for tomorrow. They have just sent me a text saying there is a fund raiser for Macmillan at the church in Wigtoft, a small village on the route where they will be serving refreshments until 4:00 pm. Sounds good. I may end up being converted.






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