SWCP, Two Moors Way Aftertmath 2

Ten days before the end of the walk, when I fell on the road at Axmouth a recurrence of a previous affliction started. In 2009 I had a bacterial infection in my right ankle and leg which took a month to sort  via intravenous drip administered by health visitors to my home. This now started again in my left ankle.

I did not mention it on the blog, but I was in some discomfort for the rest of the walk, although that was on and off and usually settled down each day once I got walking.

Back home my gp put me on the same antbiotic as before which showed some improvement, but on Saturday things deteriorated and following the gp's instructions I went to Kendal hospital this morning, Sunday, and have now been sent to Lancaster, and I am typing this having moved from waiting room one to waiting room two to a cubicle. All that has taken less than an hour here so far and the doctor has been very thorough and informative. I am awaiting a blood test result which is being done here and now.

Further report to follow.

SW Coast Path and Two Moors Way slideshow

Here is the Dropbox link to the slideshow

CLICK HERE

Despite the glorious weather it was nearly always hazy, and on the moors sometimes misty and most of the photos reflect this. Having said that I have been pleased with the Panasonic TZ40 and especially its facility to Bluetooth photos to the iPad so they can post on the blog.

Please click on the first photo to start the slideshow.

Aftermath - South West Coast Path and Two Moors Way

Well, I  made it home.

Departed Barnstaple 9:43 am for Birmingham, Birmingham to Lancaster, Lancaster to Arnside, arriving 5:30 pm. 

My section of the SWCP was varied, and always interesting, and individual because of its affinity with the sea, The going is strenuous but mainly on good paths. There are many very steep, but usually short ascents. There is some pretty uncomfortable pebble, shingle beach walking which, although attractive to view is hard going - I was just glad there wasn’t much more.

Poole to Exmouth is 115 miles and I previously walked Land’s End to Barnstaple on my LEJOG walk which is another 188 miles so I reckon I have covered just under half of the total 630 miles. I am pretty sure the remainder would be just as tough. I only met two or three people who were embarked on the whole trip non-stop, but many who were walking it in sections. Anybody who completes this walk in one hit has my profound respect.

The Two Moors Way had three components, Dartmoor National Park and Exmoor National Park and “the bit in between”.

Devon County Council produce a useful guide to the TMW and state their policy of not waymarking the route across the moor thus retaining a feeling of wilderness and remote walking, and I admire that. The path is not easy to follow and once lost needs skill with compass, map, and hopefully gps to regain. This trek must not be taken lightly. The scenery is superb, but for northerners this part of the moor is not a blanket of heather like Goathland or Ilkley, more a mixture of heather, gorse, reeds and open patches of grass. I saw it at the back end of heather blooming combined with rampant yellow gorse - magnificent mixtures of colours. Looking at the map this walk only scratches the surface of the massive expanse of Dartmoor, and from what I saw you could spend a very fruitful lifetime exploring this unique and beautiful environment.

The “bit in between”  has not much to recommend. Certainly on leaving the northern boundary of Dartmoor National Park the route crosses fields with stiles, gates and quite a lot of road walking. You could be anywhere in the country, but as you get closer to Exmoor more old country bridleways and lanes are used and the walk takes on some character. The balcony path skirting Drago Castle and taking in Sharp Tor is spectacular.

The trek to Exe Head and the rest of Exmoor is once again a delightful region with its own identity taking in wild grass moorland, rivers, wooded ravines and hillsides, and then an invigorating ridge walk on cropped grass to arrive at Cheriton. The walk out to Lynmouth builds to a superb climax of deeply wooded valleys, airy footpaths zig-zagging up and down with distant sea views and the final descent to sea level.

I’ve never been too keen on planning ahead, but Lynmouth is not an easy place to escape from, especially if you arrive on a Sunday. Others may wish to put a bit more thought into that problem.

For me a good long distance route should have character that sets it apart from mundane country walking. Coastal walks always have that advantage even in their industrialised settings. Inland walks can have quality by following a good line of ridges or waterways, and a sense of purpose, perhaps following the ancient bridleways between major settlements. Both these walks had most of that and would get a top rating if I was scoring. The ones to avoid are those devised by local authorities to promote their region linking together a number of meaningless footpaths round crop fields ploughed out to the edges leaving ankle twisting tractor tracks, and which seemed like a good idea at the time, but not now maintained, and degenerated into a nightmare of overgrown undergrowth and nettles, broken stiles, blocked off rights of way, aggressive farmyard dogs, and gates tied up with hairy orange string.   

Day 19 (last day) - Withypool to Lynmouth - Sunday 21st Sept.

This was the first day of nineteen that was not hazy and it couldn't have been a better day for it. I did have a reed-swamp-fest soon after leaving the hotel and went in over the top of my wretched Brashers for the first time on the trip, so wet feet for the rest of the day.

I was looking forward to the trek over Exmoor to locate Exe Head for the second time. I passed through on my LEJOG walk, but this time I would cross that path at right angles. I hadn't fully realised until writing this that I have walked to Exemouth on the SWCP, and now to Exe Head. Is there a viable route to trace this interesting river?

Compass and gps were needed to get to the river source, others who are better at following almost invisible tracks may not need all that gadgetry. It is strange how memory plays tricks, but when I finally homed in it was a much more elaborate location with fences and crossing paths than I remember.

That had been a great trip across the moor watching the light improve. I now followed a much more defined path following Hoarse Oak Water with fabulous semi wooded ravine views, and then a tricky bit of navigation at The Hoare Oak - no clues, followers must sort it for themselves - part of the fun.

That took me to a superb cropped grass ridgewalk with great views, and I met the first people of the day on my route, a family on horseback.

The final few kilometres into Lynmouth look deceptively easy on the map - a broad track through woodland for starters, but then a tortuous hill climb, descent, zig zag, narrow path that goes on forever. However, the wooded ravine views and the distant sea are worthwhile rewards.

After five and three quarter hours walking I was at the finish -Lynmouth, 12:45pm. My overriding concern was to find a public convenience. Once sorted the local brew shop informed me no bus anywhere until 5: 00pm. I started to hitch-hike to Minehead, my direction of travel to get home. After one lift of two miles I was in the middle of nowhere, and it was after 3:00pm, things were getting serious.

I crossed over the road and started hitching the other way back to Lynmouth. I got another lift to five miles down the road from Lynmouth to Barnstaple, again in the middle of nowhere. A guy in a a Land Rover with a Springer Spaniel stopped on his way home which was about three miles from Barnstaple. He drove me right past his house, then all the way to the railway station in Barnstaple, waited until I established it was not possible to get home tonight, then drove me to a hotel in the centre of Barnstaple where I am now typing up after a very satisfactory evening meal. There are still some very decent people about, but not many judging by the huge number that didn't stop. This trip is costing me a fortune, but worth every penny.




Looking back on the way to Exe Head, morning light forcing through


Now a bit of sunlight on the moor ahead


Off the path on the way to Exe Head


Exe Head


Hoarse Oak Water



Easy walking on the ridge to Cherriton


Incoming cavalry


A fellow Yeti owner. Loading lambs sold on to more lowland farmer for further fattening. His land doesn't have rich enough grass


Lynmouth


One of many views from path approaching Lynmouth




Lynmouth, just to prove I got there



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Day 18 - Withypool to Simonsbath, Sat. 20th Sept.

Last night I had a good shin beef casserole with mini roast vegetables at the Royal Oak - chef knew what he was doing.

Breakfast not until 8:30, but it didn't matter, I had only seven miles to do with the pleasant knowledge that I was already booked into the Exmoor Forest hotel at Simonsbath.

I dawdled all the way. A distant mist prevailed so views were restricted, but atmosphere enhanced. I was soon up onto what they call a moor around here, all very pleasant but no relation to Ilkley or Goathland. Here it is largely reeds, gorse, bracken and a bit of heather, and because of its suitability for grazing animals, close cropped grass. Ponies, cows, and sheep, and their leavings were the order of the day.

A long length of the path was well evident but only about eight inches wide, and occasionally disappearing. I lost it once and ended up about fifty yards off. Even with map, gps and compass it was quite difficult to get back again across the rough terrain - you can be only ten or fifteen feet away without being able to see it.

Dropping down off the moor the attractive River Barle came into view and was then followed into Simonsbath on good paths.

Once again I have ordered a packed lunch in lieu of breakfast to be given to me tonight and I aim to get away for 7:00 am to do the last stint to Lynmouth. Getting home may be a challenge, there is no railway, and it being Sunday not much in the way of a bus. I may resort to hitch-hiking to get me to a railway station. We shall see.




A different take on dry stone walling


Very steep - there's lots of this on the TMW





Typical vegetation on the moor. The path was more established here



Typical narrow path - lose it at your peril


River Barle


Close up with the Barle


A bit of the orange string I keep moaning about. Here the string was the only thing holding the gate post up. When I untied it the gate post just fell over


I sat here in peace for a while, then after I had things to myself all morning various parties seemed to appear from nowhere and so it continued into Simonsbath


My bed at the Exmoor Forest hotel - you could have a game of tennis if you could stand up


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Day 17 - Witheridge to Withypool, Fri. 19th Sept.

Was the early start a good idea?. I left The Mitre after battling with the mighty front door again at 6:00 am. It was dark. I was sporting my head torch, something I have hardly ever done before. The brightness of the screen on the iPhone mapping killed my night vision. Consequently I turned up a track leaving the village parallel to my route and wasted ten minutes or so backtracking. Stumbling across a sort of path over a ploughed field, but feeling I was making some effort at moving quickly a young girl with dog came skipping past and vanished into the distance. Fortunately it became lighter, and then I was into a long stretch of road where I really did march.

A lot of the route was on roads, but the paths were mainly on ancient bridle ways in sunken lanes, or following higher ground in other places - the sort of tracks where I was imagining the possibility of finding a medieval hoard with a metal detector. That was all a lot better than yesterday's contrived paths round fields.

Halfway through the morning light rain started and persisted until mid afternoon. At one point I sheltered, munched and regrouped in the church at West Anstey (churches offer a good facility for weary weather stricken backpackers).

I arrived at the tea shop in Withypool nine and a half hours after starting out this morning. The book says it is twenty two miles, but I have my doubts. I intend to measure when I get back home.

Tomorrow I could walk the book stated nineteen miles to the finish at Lynmouth, but have opted to walk only seven miles to Simonsbath where I have already booked in courtesy of the landlord here at the Royal Oak. The forecast is better and I prefer to enjoy two shorter days rather than have another big slog.


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Day 16 - Morchard Bishop to Witheridge, Thurs. 18th Sept.

I had a monster meal at the London Inn last night with quantities that would defy anybody and I had to leave quite a lot. The pub was run by mum, Vera behind the bar, and daughter Sarah, on cooks. There was lots of family banter and village gossip about, and later I got the full thing from Vera about when she was a lass and they walked three miles each way to school, and how she had to milk the cows before setting off etc., etc.

By the time I left the village it was 9:00 am. I was lethargic and still weary from yesterday's efforts and walked very slowly the eight miles to Witheridge - 5.5 hours for eight miles. The walking was dreary, much on agricultural, lumpy, cow fields, and hate of hates TRACTOR TRACKS (like walking endlessly over buckled corrugated iron). There were also many bad gates lashed up with orange string, almost impossible to untie; once the indispensable Swiss Army knife was put to use. Another time the farmer had destroyed the TWM signpost with his hedge cutting leading me to a false trail down a steep, lumpy grass hill and back again. There was nothing to note of the scenery and you could have been anywhere in the country. I hope things will improve when I hit Exmoor.

I am booked in at The Mitre. Witheridge is an attractive, quintessential English village.

Got showered then set off for village. My pub closed, but door on latch, but I couldn't open it (massive door). Knocked on all locked doors in hall. No response. Returned to room where I had a faint Vodafone signal armed with pub visiting card and phone number. Tried number, " this number not yet issued".

Went back down, heaved on mighty door again and it suddenly came open nearly knocking me over.

At the village tea shop I researched logistics for tomorrow, and to be sure of accommodation I will have to walk to Withypool. 22 miles!

I had no signal but the kind lady at the tea shop let me use her landline and I am booked in at The Royal Oak. I have arranged for a packed breakfast which I will get tonight and I aim to set off early in the morning. This afternoon it is incredibly hot in the village.




The balcony path below Castle Drago yesterday


Castle Drago under restoration wraps


From Sharp Tor on the same path


One of the better bits of today's walk


The same farm where the farmer had trashed the TWM sign and tied up gates with orange string. Goodness knows what he had been up to excavating this eyesore



This one just to show some boring, lumpy field scenery. You readers have got to suffer too


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